When you travel to
India for a stay exceeding 180 days you will be required to register with the
Foreigners Registration Office (FRO)
within two weeks of your arrival. This can be a bit tricky for us
outsiders so I've put together a handy step-by-step guide to walk you through
it.
The following took
place over the course of two months.
How to Register with
the FRO in India:
Step 1: Catch an
auto rickshaw and ride the 45 minutes to the FRO the day after you arrive.
Step 2: Get stopped
at the door and told to go online and download an application form and bring
with it all the documents that you've already given them when you applied for
your visa.
Step 3: Collect the
documents and return. Wait for your number to be called. For 15 minutes no one
will be called to the counter, despite all of them being manned by people
starring at the wall.
Step 4: Wonder
uselessly why this is.
Step 5: They will
begin calling numbers and after 30 minutes it will be your turn. The man
inspecting documents will find a typo in your rental contract and tell you to
get it fixed and re-notarized. You will also be told to bring a copy of the
landlords photo ID as well as a letter from your landlord stating that you will
be staying there. It will seem to you that the signed rental contract would be
sufficient. Ignore that thought.
Step 6: Wait a week
and half for your landlord to come back from a business trip in Rome and give
you a copy of his ID.
Bonus Traveler's
Tip: It won't matter since before he gets back you'll realize you're being
overcharged, find a better apartment for 8,000 rupees less and start the
process over.
Step 7: Collect the
new documents and take them to the FRO. Wait for your number to be called. After 40 minutes it will
be your turn, but the man at the counter will immediately direct you to another
line where documents are being inspected by another man.
Step 8: Wait in the second line for 30
minutes. The man at this counter will tell you that you're too far past the
registration deadline so you will now need a police report from the city you
currently live in stating that you have not been arrested for anything.
Step 9: He will give
you a letter explaining what form is needed to give to the police.
Step 10: Take the
request letter to the station. Once there they will tell you that you've only
lived in this city for a few days so before they give you their report you'll
need to present one from the city you first lived in.
Step 11: Ride to
that city's police station. You will be informed that you need a request letter
from the FRO listing their city's name. If you hear a soft chipping sound,
don't worry. That's just the sound of your mind breaking in little, tiny
pieces. Ignore it and ride the 45 minutes back to the FRO for the report
request letter.
Bonus Traveler's
Tip: When the FRO gives you the form with the wrong city on it, hand it back
and tell them to reprint it. He'll try and convince you that this is
unnecessary, but you'll know better because you’re a savvy traveler about to go
completely insane.
Step 12: Return to
the first police station with the proper letter. He'll ask you why it wasn't
stamped by the FRO. Be bewildered. He'll shake his head and tell you that he
needs copies of your visa and passport. Apparently the stamp was simply a
matter of preference. When you give the copies to him, he will tell you the
visa copy is on the wrong size paper.
Step 13: Take deep
breathes and count to 10.
Step 14: Go across
the street to a Xerox shop and get the copy on the correct sized paper.
Step 15: When you
return he will then, and only then, inform that he also needs copies of your
rental contract, your employment contract and a photograph of you.
Step 16: Look at
your photo. Wonder who this person is. He looks strangely familiar, like
someone you once new in a past life.
Step 17: Go back
across the street to get these all copied.
Step 18: When you
return three minutes later the police officer will be gone and you will be told
that he has left to have breakfast.
Step 19: Burn the
building down
Step 20: Burn the
building down.
Step 21: Burn the
building down
Step 22: Ignore the
voices telling you to burn the building down as this will only further delay
your registration.
Step 23: Wait the 20
minutes for him to return. He will take the copies and tell you to come back
tomorrow.
Step 24: Go back the
next day and wait at the station for half an hour. The police officer will show
up and grab a Tupperware of food from his desk drawer. He'll tell you he's
going to eat breakfast. Say something stupid like, "Wait! Is my report ready?"
Step 25: Watch him
walk away, pretending he hasn't heard you.
Step 26: Wait
another 20 minutes while you cling uselessly to your feeble grip on reality
like an elderly widower clutching a photograph of his long dead wife.
Step 27: When he
returns he'll turn on his computer and print the report. Could he have done
this before breakfast? No, you idiot. Why would you even think that?
Loose five points.
Step 28: The police
officer will then tell you to go across the street to make copies for him.
Apparently you now work at the police station too. Congratulations on your new
job, Senior Copier Guy Who Copies Stuff For People Who Love To Eat Breakfast!
Step 29: Return with
the copies and leave with the original. Remember those voices telling you to
burn the building down? Feel free to give now!
Step 30: Act casual
as you walk out of the burning building.
Step 31: Get sent to
Chennai for four days on business.
Step 32: When you
return take the report to the station of city you currently live in. Die a
little inside when he tells you that the report was only valid for three days.
Did anyone bother to mention this to you? Nope! Is it printed on the form
anywhere? Nope! Did Officer Breakfast try to tell you this telepathically?
Maybe!
Step 33: Since
you're already there, the officer wants to see your apartment to make sure this
isn't some elaborate ruse to drive yourself insane. Oh, but he doesn't have a
car so you have to find a rickshaw and you have to pay for it.
Step 34: Show him
the apartment and drop him back off at his station.
Step 35: Go back to
the charred remains of the other station and explain to Officer Breakfast that
you need another report.
He'll tell you that
he can't give you another report without another request letter from the FRO.
You'll ask why a second, nearly identical letter is necessary. He'll just shrug
and walk out of his office, leaving you to clutch your knees to you chest and
rock back forth mumbling incoherently.
Step 36: Keep in
mind that punching an officer of the law right in his breakfast-eating face is
frowned upon in India and exit the station peacefully.
Step 37: Ride the 45
minutes back to the FRO and wonder how it's possible to hate a building so
much.
Step 38: Ask for
another request letter and show the man working the desk the other city's
request letter so he knows what you're asking for. He'll ask you why it's not
stamped.
Bonus Traveler's
Tip: Apparently there is a magical man
who runs around stamping important documents which is obviously why no one
bothered to tell you that a stamp for them existed let alone was necessary.
Step 39: Get the
request letter and...
Step 40: Get it
stamped.
Step 41: Take the
stamped request letter to the police station of the first city you lived in.
Wait 30 minutes for the officer to come to his office.
Bonus Traveler's Pop
Quiz!
What was Officer
Breakfast doing for those 30 minutes:
A Eating dinner
B His job
C Eating breakfast
heyguysthisistherightanswer.
Step 42: He will
take the form and ask for scanned copies of your passport and visa. You'll
remind him that you gave those to him last week. He will tell you that those
are now in storage. Of course they are.
Step 43: Go across
the street and make copies. When you hand them in the officer will tell you to
come back later that evening.
Step 44: Return and
collect the report.
Step 45: Muster up
the strength to do a victory dance.
Step 46: Take this
report and head to the station of the city you currently live in. There's a new
officer in charge and he heard you have a pretty sweet pad and now he wants to
see it. Find a rickshaw and pay for it to take the two of you to your apartment.
Show it to him and drop him back off at the station.
He'll tell you to
return for their report later that night.
Step 47: Return to
the police station. He'll tell you to return at 11 the following morning. At
this point your exhaustion is outpacing your anger. Crawl away.
Step 48: Return to
the police station again. Wait with the police officer for the police chief to
show up to sign your report. After about 20 minutes the officer will get
annoyed of your constant sighing and the two of you will go to find the chief.
The police chief
will be the man with two stars on his shoulder watching TV. Some show about
Indian people. He'll look away from the screen long enough to sign your form.
Step 49: With both
reports and all necessary documents in hand, march proudly into the FRO.
Nothing can stop you. You're on top of the world.
Step 50: You suck
and you're stupid. One of your letters from your company isn't written right.
Has it been look at and approved by several FRO employees? Yep! It even has
check mark seal of approval on it. Doesn't matter!
Step 51: Oh and also
now you need a scanned ID of your boss.
Bonus Traveler's
Tip: On the FRO website is a list of documents necessary for your registration.
A copy of your boss's ID isn't on there. No one is going to mention it until
now. But still, you should have known…somehow.
Step 52: Take a
rickshaw 45 minutes back to the office. Write and print a new letter and copy your boss's ID.
Step 53: Take a
rickshaw back to the FRO and hand in the papers. He will stamp your passport
letting everyone know from here on out that you registered late. But who cares
because...
Step 54 :
Congratulations! You are now a registered foreigner as well as a danger to
yourself and others. What is the meaning of this vulgar reality? All is an
illusion.
Step 55: Check
yourself into a nearby mental institution and enjoy the rest of your life in a
bathrobe.